Confirming it is the slab
Plenty of warm floors and damp corners turn out to be something else entirely. Isolation and pressure testing prove the loss is under the concrete before anyone talks about opening it.
When a water line inside or beneath a concrete floor fails, the water has nowhere obvious to go. An independent plumber can locate the leak first and show you where it is; ask for the repair choices and the price before any concrete is touched.
If you can identify it as the hot line, shutting off the water heater's cold supply valve stops that side of the loss without cutting water to the whole house. Otherwise, closing the main is the safe move. Do not start breaking up flooring to look, and do not assume the wet spot marks the pipe, because water follows the path of least resistance under a slab.

Plenty of warm floors and damp corners turn out to be something else entirely. Isolation and pressure testing prove the loss is under the concrete before anyone talks about opening it.
Acoustic listening and temperature readings narrow the leak to a small area, so the access hole is the size it needs to be and no larger.
A single pinhole in otherwise sound pipe can be repaired in place. A line that has already leaked more than once is usually better abandoned and rerouted overhead or through walls.
The concrete gets patched back and the area left clean. Floor covering and any finish work is a separate step, and you will be told that up front rather than at the end.
Two choices come up most often. Spot repair means opening the floor at the leak, fixing that section and closing it up: quickest and cheapest when the pipe elsewhere is in good condition. Rerouting means abandoning the failed run and putting a new line through walls or the attic instead: more work up front, but it takes the pipe out of the concrete for good. Which one makes sense depends on the pipe material, how many failures there have been and where the run goes.
Copper under a slab is the usual candidate around here. Hard groundwater and the minerals in it work on the pipe from the inside, and soil chemistry and settlement work on it from the outside, so a pinhole in one spot is a fair sign that other spots are thinning too. Homes built on concrete in Prescott Valley and the newer parts of Prescott are where these calls cluster; older houses near downtown often have a crawl space instead, which is a very different and usually easier repair.
If you are not certain whether the water is under the floor at all, start with leak detection. For the symptom list in detail, read slab leak warning signs. If a line has failed outright and water is spreading now, see burst pipe repair, or look at the water heater comparison if the hot side is the one losing pressure.
The classic combination is a warm patch of floor, water you can hear when the house is silent and a bill or a well pump that says water is running constantly. The meter test settles it: shut everything off and see whether the meter still moves. An independent plumber can then confirm whether the loss is really under the concrete.
It is urgent rather than instant. Water under a floor keeps running day and night, gets into framing and flooring and can undermine ground beneath the concrete. It does not usually have to be fixed at two in the morning, but it should not be left for months either. Call to reach an independent plumber who can assess yours.
No. Once the leak is pinpointed, the opening is made at that spot only. If the pipe has failed repeatedly, rerouting the run through walls or overhead avoids opening the floor again later. Ask for a price on both options before you decide. See how the leak is located.
Mostly corrosion of copper lines cast into or run under concrete, helped along by hard water inside the pipe and ground conditions outside it. Abrasion where a pipe rubs against concrete, poor original installation and ground movement account for the rest. Read more on common repairs.
Call and describe the warm spot, the sound or the bill to reach an independent plumber.