Isolating the system
Shutting valves section by section narrows the loss to the house line, the yard line or a single branch before any equipment comes out of the truck.
Water escaping where you cannot see it shows up as a bill that climbed, a pump that will not rest or a patch of wall that never dries. An independent plumber can trace the leak to its actual source before anything gets opened up, then repair it.
The meter test is the one thing worth doing yourself. Turn off every fixture, check the meter or the low-flow indicator, wait fifteen minutes and look again. If it moved, water is leaving the system somewhere. On a well, the equivalent is a pump that cycles with the house quiet. Neither test tells you where; that part is for an independent plumber.

Shutting valves section by section narrows the loss to the house line, the yard line or a single branch before any equipment comes out of the truck.
Holding a section under pressure and watching whether it falls proves which run is leaking, including the buried line between a well or a meter and the house.
Listening equipment picks up water escaping under concrete or behind a wall, and temperature differences help pinpoint a hot line. The aim is one small access hole, not an exploratory one.
Once the failure is exposed, ask for the options and the price. Afterwards the section should be pressurized again so you know the loss has actually stopped.
What a leak repair costs comes down to where the water is escaping and what has to be moved to reach it. A supply line under a sink is straightforward. A pinhole in copper inside a concrete floor, a split in a buried yard line under a gravel driveway or a failure inside a stone-faced exterior wall are not. Where an old run has leaked before, replacing or rerouting that section is often better value than repairing another pinhole in pipe that is failing along its whole length.
Rural properties add a stretch of pipe that town houses do not have. Between a well, its pressure tank and the house there can be a long buried line, and a leak out there shows as a pump that never rests rather than a wet floor indoors. Plumbers work on the house side of that system; well pump and tank servicing itself is a separate trade, so ask when you call what is available.
If the loss is under a concrete floor, see slab leak repair. If a line has failed outright, go to burst pipe repair. Where the pressure has dropped at every fixture and the wet ground is outside, the buried supply pipe is the likely culprit and water line repair is the next page to read. Where a leaking water heater is the source, compare your choices on the repair or replacement page, or read how a service call works before you get connected.
Shut off every fixture and watch the water meter or the well pump. A meter that keeps creeping or a pump that cycles with nothing running means water is escaping. A bill that rose for no reason, damp drywall or a warm patch of floor are the other common signs. An independent plumber can trace it from there.
Not as the first step. Isolation, pressure testing and listening equipment narrow the search down to a small area, and the aim is a single access point at the failure rather than exploratory holes. You approve any opening before it is made.
It depends on how much of the system has to be isolated and tested, and whether the leak is indoors, under concrete or out along a buried yard line. Ask for the detection and the repair to be quoted separately so you can see what you are approving. Read how a service call works for the sequence.
It rarely stays small. Water gets into framing, insulation and cabinetry, and a leak under a floor keeps running whether you are home or not. At these elevations a slow leak in a crawl space or an exterior wall can also freeze and split the pipe outright. Getting it located early is the cheaper end of this problem.
Call and describe what changed: the bill, the pressure, the pump or a damp patch.